I guess I should check mine to see if that is the source of my drain....

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It will be a great day when our schools have all the money they need
and the government has to hold a bake sale to buy another bomb.

The tolerances between the Paul rear subframe and the chassis is very very tight (It was on my car at least) it fit but if things moved the smallest amount it would bang.

Mine was closest at the little brackrt that the fuel lines attached to right near where the EVAP canister was.

You may want to check that as well and give it a little clearance. I tapped mine with a hammer to give it a little distance

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1993 Mazda RX7- Did you bring enough?

Sounds like your alt is dead, the stock charge light doesn't work after a swap. Did you or whoever did your harness put a resisted in the alt wire? No resister is a easy way to fry it. If u did fry it, check out dans alt thread of putting in a gto resister in the alternator. Will save u tons of trouble and the cost of a new alt.

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93 LS1 7

also.... how big of wire do you have going to and from the alternator? When i first got my swap done the wire i had from the fuse block to the alternator was a tad bit to small and over time it burnt up and caused power issues.

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93 FD R1 VR/Black
2002 ls1/T56, 562whp/587ftlbs

i did the harness.

there is no PCM control wire for the O4 GTO LS1. it has a self exciting regulator.

the 04 alternator has an accessory plug, which has 2 terminals. one is for a charge light which is simple to hook up through a 2 watt bulb. the other is for optional battery charge level sensing. if the charge sensing terminal is not used, the alternator charge voltage decreases to 1.2 volts higher than the battery steady state, maximum charge level.

the self exciting alternator relies on a residual magnetic field, which retains a low flux level by taking a small drain current from the battery when the car is turned off. this is why there is a small milliamp leakage current.

there are other small leakage currents when the car is turned off, such as your clock, radio tuner presets, PCM trims, etc.

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On my ass, as usual.

As has been mentioned any auto parts store should be able to check your alternator on or off the car. While your battery may be new that doesn't mean it's not bad. A cell or plate in it could have gone bad. Go get it checked. You can also get any of your local auto parts stores to use their OBDII scanner to pull codes for you. Granted that means you've got to get the car up there. Another option would be to just buy one of the cheap code readers. Typically no more than $60 but i think i've seen some low end ones for like $30.

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2005 Subaru Forester XT | Intake, Pulley, EL Headers, Downpipe, 3" Catless Exhaust, Custom Tune, Coilovers, and BBK
1986 Mazda RX-7 Sport (White)| RIP | The Donor
1986 Mazda RX-7 Sport (Gold) | The Project
1987 Mazda RX-7 (White) | Step 3: Profit?

LS1 on Engine Stand

My car is throwing the P0134 code, which is due to the PCM not seeing the Driver's side O2 sensor and I have a lot of the run symptoms you do, the lumpy idle and it surges and flutters when you get on the throttle. I replaced the O2 sensor and checked the wiring and everything checked out fine, but after install I still have the code.

I called up my tuner and he said that the tune being way off can cause this code as well. The switching in the PCM gets slow and it throws the inactivity code.

I would definitely get the alternator and battery checked out, and then pull your codes.

Ok, I did the following:
A) re-torqued the suspension pieces, and found the shock towers were a little loose
B) I had failed to re-connect the water temperature sensor, so I did so.
C) I installed some heat shielding material between the headers and the split-loom wiring material from the O2 sensors.
D) I re-charged the battery with my (new) trickle charger

The engine fired up quickly, and runs smoothly, so I guess the water temp sensor makes that big a difference. Also, eliminating the distracting smoke from the burning wiring protectors helps me maintain focus on other issues.
Also, I'm starting to figure out the Aeroforce gauges, and am using them in place of many of the stock gauges, as well as an OBDII scan tool. Most important, the gauges have confirmed for me that my oil pressure is fine (since the stock gauges are marginal).
Still, I have to figure out if my alternator is actually charging the battery.
Also, my fan isn't coming on, so I've got to make sure that I've got the new relay wired correctly.
Thanks guys.

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If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

just measure the voltage across the battery terminals when the engine is running. if the alternator is charging, the voltage will read somewhere between 13.5 volts & 14.75 volts, depending on the charge state of the battery.

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On my ass, as usual.

Thanks for the quick-and-dirty test...that will be easy. Just curious; how can a 12V battery (in a 12V car) measure this high a voltage between the battery terminals?

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If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.