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Old 07-14-2008, 12:38 PM
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Default How to: Remote mount water pump on an LT1

Hey guys I've been playing with the LT1 Turbo again... Here is a Wright up on How to Route an external water pump on your LT1. I got my water flow pattern through a buddy who works at Cadillac dealership. I hope this is helpful to someone... because if It would have prevented me a lot of research and headache.

1. Make sure to drain the water completely so that you do not wet the opti-spark.
2. Remove old water pump
3. Cut off about 3" of stock water pump runners where it mates to the block. be sure to leave plenty of room for welding or taping your AN fittings or hose barbs on to the aluminum runners.
4. tap or weld your Barbs or AN fittings to the runners of the stock pump.
5. the top two water holes on the block are returns from the motor they feed the top of the radiator
6. from the bottom of the radiator run a hose that goes into the feed (inlet) of the pump.
7. The pump has 2 outlets one will go to the bottom holes on the heads and the other goes to the heater core or if your not going to have heat like me you can just block it off with a plug.
8. Wire up the pump and don't forget to put it on a relay with a nice fuse and fill the system with water and your set!
Options:
there are plenty of options that you can do including an inline thermostat and a warning buzzer and light that tells you if your pump has stopped working.



I will be posting pix after I install all of the parts...
Aaron
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Old 07-15-2008, 11:14 AM
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interesting! i can't wait for pics
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Old 07-16-2008, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rx7pro View Post
5. the top two water holes on the block are returns from the motor they feed the top of the radiator

I will be posting pix after I install all of the parts...
Aaron
Confirm this as LT1's are reverse flow going to the heads first.

Please do post pics as I like this idea.
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Old 07-16-2008, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irentat View Post
Confirm this as LT1's are reverse flow going to the heads first.

Please do post pics as I like this idea.
I think the top two holes are for heads and two bottom for block. LT1 has double thermostat which is controling heads and block temperature separate.
After entering through one side of the 2-way thermostat (at the appropriate temperature), the cold coolant is routed directly to the cylinder heads first. Then the heated coolant returns to the engine block and circulates around the cylinder barrels. The hot coolant from the block re-enters the water pump, and hits the other side of the 2-way thermostat, where it is either re-circulated back through the engine or directed to the radiator, depending on temperature.
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Old 07-16-2008, 01:56 PM
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ill post pix this weekend i have to install all of my goodies!
aaron
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Old 08-05-2008, 01:04 PM
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any pics yet??
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Old 11-18-2008, 08:21 PM
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ok guys/gals... ive been trying to find time here and there to work on the project its comming along nicely... enjoy...


Water pump mounting bracket.


Temperary platic barbs (I replaced them with Brass)


Remote mount water pump


Pieces parts befor Welding...


Pass. Side...


Both sides...


Mounting bracket mostly compleate...


Finished product...

Ill show a pic of the current setup with all hoses and pump insalled. Its looks pretty good and I hope to start up the beast with turbo and all after I find alot little here and there parts...
Let me know what you think!
aaron
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Old 11-19-2008, 01:46 PM
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Great update. Tell me what you intend to gain from this? I ask because I have overheating issues when I road race and need to resolve them. Could this help increase flow through the radiator? That is the thing I am looking for at this time.

Ben
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Old 11-19-2008, 03:30 PM
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Im not sure if it will increase flow.. The water pressure will be higher due to the small water pipes. my intent for doing this is to:
A: make more room for my intercooler tubing for the cold side...
B: and also to not F-up my my optispark. due to a failed water pump driping on it.
So far it looks like its going to work.
Aaron
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Old 11-20-2008, 06:01 PM
Rob X-7 Rob X-7 is offline
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let me ask you something, might be a little off your topic but you might have my answer- I know the S5 temp gauge when its a rotary engine is not a real gauge, it moves to one point and stays there, but with a Lt1 swap does the gauge still react the same or does it actually read correct temperature?
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