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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2006, 12:04 AM
the1carnut the1carnut is offline
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Default Re: How-to thread

His FAQ thread is great, I'm trying to focus on chassis and body mods, While LT1-10AE's is more engine swap oriented. I'm not trying to replace it.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2007, 11:40 PM
JCMS - Steve JCMS - Steve is offline
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thanks, the1carnut -- a year or so later- we're up late right now hoping to figure this wiring stuff out. what was this out of in case i need to get the whole thing?
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2007, 03:36 AM
the1carnut the1carnut is offline
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Mostly out of the factory manual, but I've moved since then and still haven't unpacked a lot of stuff. So it might take a little while to find it.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2007, 07:36 AM
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sticky this thread plz

Most of theses are LS1 related:

FC A/C
FC AC for dummies w/pics

FD A/C
FD A/C electrical resolved

poorman FC headers
For the do-it-yourselfer, poorboy ls1 fc longtubes with pics!

Powersteering
what i did for power steering
Power Steering Pump Relief Spring Calculation
Power Steering Pump Pressure
lS1 FD- PS Pressure lowering (the correct way)

should be most that i bookmarked
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Old 10-05-2007, 08:01 AM
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since i started the A/C thread, color me gone, rao & hyperian, resolved the issues of using the PCM to control the A/C.

here is one of their links

Got the AC working with the LS1 PCM (at least for a few minutes)
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2007, 01:43 PM
JCMS - Steve JCMS - Steve is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the1carnut View Post
Mostly out of the factory manual, but I've moved since then and still haven't unpacked a lot of stuff. So it might take a little while to find it.
well thanks to your pictures we were able to attach most everything to the stock wiring! woohoo! we were going to hardwire all the necessary stuff with toggle switches and wires to and from the battery. lights, retractors, starter, distributer, brake lights... yeah NO THANKS

anyway, thanks again; my friends and i appreciate your help
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Old 11-02-2007, 09:00 AM
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Here are instructions for removing the FD dash:
Disconnect battery. Remove the column cover. Three Phillips screws (one is machine thread) hold the clamshells to the turn signals. There are 4 tabs that hold the clamshell together. Push in on the bottom piece while prying out on the top piece between the stalk openings to release the first set. The second set are located closer to the steering wheel. Pull the metal ring around the key switch and the twist lock illumination light.
The two end caps (side panels) need to be removed to reach a hidden screw for the lower panel (under instrument hood). Use a flat tool like a putty knife or flat screwdriver to release the three spring clips and pull toward you. Do the passenger side too. With those off you can pull the hidden screw and the one under the speedo and remove the lower panel under the gage cluster.
The gage cluster is held by two Phillips screws at it's bottom and three spring clips. Once the screws are out it can be pulled toward the steering wheel and up to release the three clips. The turn signal stalks will prevent it from coming all the way out so the column must be dropped by removing the two 12mm bolts. The column harnesses can stay connected. After those three spring clips finally give it up and the meter hood is loose all connectors need to be removed. It's hard to see what needs to be pushed to release these so start with the headlight pop up switch and lighter and work your way to the center so you can twist if needed.
For the dash to move away from the cowl both console panel and the center panel (AC controls) need to be removed. The console panel has four spring clips surrounding the shift boot wit one of them close to the security light. It needs to lift almost straight up because of it's alignment pins. Once it's loose remove all it's connectors and put it in a safe place cuz it's expensive. The rear console is held with six Phillips screws and pulls easily. With the gage cluster removed you can see two Phillips screws that hold the center panel (the other two were removed to pull the rear console). Pull these and there are two spring clips just under the radio opening. The bottom needs to pull straight out because there is a rather long alignment pin. Pull the four connectors and put the AC console with your other shiny things. If you are fortunate enough to have side panels they need to be removed to get to four 12mm bolts that hold the dash to the trans tunnel. The hood release is pulled by two 10mm bolts. The handbrake really should be pulled but the cable can be left connected. Pull the three 12mm bolts and completely remove the harness from the handbrake. There is a 10mm bolt at the center base of the windshield under a trim piece so get an extension and pull it too. I pulled my kick panels for other reasons but if you need to they are held in by push pin rivets. Pop the center of the rivet loose (not out) and the kick should work loose. The welting is very close so pull the thresholds and the welting. Pull the four 12mm bolts that you saw when you pulled the end caps and your dash is loose. It can be pulled enough to reach two connectors on the driver side and three on the passenger side. The dash can now be removed.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2007, 09:17 AM
frijolee frijolee is offline
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No offense but a thread like this is worthless unless it can be written up as a single post that's been thoughtfully organized with all the applicable links to various subjects. Otherwise it'll just take longer to find an answer looking within this thread than via a basic search. Let's say I needed to know how to remove the FD's dash. By searching a few permutations of "FD dash removal" I find it almost immediately. If I had to read this thread I'd make it down to the 27th post all the while never knowing if the info I needed was here. Now what will happen if the info is on the 127th post?

Unless the info gets organized this post is only marginally better than the forum at large. The intent is noble. The application misguided.

I request de-stickying this.

If you really want to make this happen we need a single author to step up, have everyone send them their subscribed threads and have them put it together. I've thought about trying such a master write up (that was the partial intent of my thread) but I just don't have enough time for an undertaking that large at a minimum until I'm done with grad school in June. Until something like that happens searching works pretty well. You search on the club for mazda issues, you search on ls1tech (assuming they fixed it) or a 5.0/hemi whatever forum for engine issues, and you search here for combining the two.

Regards,
Joel
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Last edited by frijolee; 11-02-2007 at 09:38 AM..
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2007, 10:22 AM
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FAQ for 3rd Gen & other useful links - RX-7 Owners Club
A thread like this one at the club but for what we do, combining the two ?
People just need to realize that any off-topic post in a sticky will be cleaned by Brian.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2007, 01:56 PM
jk_n_tk jk_n_tk is offline
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I agree with frijolee. Though this thread undoubtedly contains useful information, in its current state, it either needs to be reorganized or removed.
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