Glad to hear you got it resolved.

I know exactly how you felt when it happened. I finished the LM4 swap into my 98 Sonoma, fired it up, saw 45psi oil pressure. While checking for leaks, I heard lifters ticking and decided to let them pump up with time. Couple minutes later I check the gauges and see 0psi. The squeeking sound coming from inside the engine was not a good sign. Only thing I can think is that the pickup tube o-ring broke. This swap was PITA and not looking forward to pulling it apart.

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Scottie


2JZ Power - 9.51 @ 146.16
Don' be afraid, it's Only A 6

Blake, there are also "left handed" drills, that are made for this type of situation. As you drill into the broken bolt the pressure is relieved and the bit catches and backs the bolt out as you are drilling into it. I am not sure how much room you have to get at it, but some of the pneumatic drills are very compact, shortening the drill is also an option. Try MSC Industrial Supply for the drill bit.

Personnaly, I would attempt this first before I would risk breaking off an easy-out in the end of that crank.
Ray

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Some people just make things happen.

Duh.........guess I had not read as far as I should have.

Oh well, glad you have it sorted out.

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Some people just make things happen.

I think I've got it covered now. I'm just drilling out the remainder of the bolt and tapping the entire snout (internally, obviously). I'll have a full 2" of thread to grab on, which is more than the stock bolt had, so I'm sure it should be fine.

Thanks for the kind words guys. Didn't mean to be dramatic, it's just one of those things where a stupid 5 dollar part (which I replaced no less) that causes days of headaches and frustration.

Scottie, I hope you figure out what's going on with it. I'd think either O-ring or the pressure spring in the pump failing (which seems unlikely). Not sure what else would cause it to start good and drop off quickly.

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Blake

2006 Crew: Team Spiderman/Hulk Top Fuel Motorcycle
8 Time World Champions, World Record Holders for 1/4 E/T: 5.799

that doesn't sound too bad. it could be worse i torqued the timing belt idler pully bolt on a honda engine out of the block, had to get an 11X1.25 helicoil kit, took about 3 weeks to find adn cost me 65 bucks. use an easy out, there are kits at like grabit.com i think for 20 bucks they work great.

in the future, a carbide tipped dremel is great for this sort of thing because you can take the bolt out without ever touching the threads again. just dremel until the pieces fall out. also, the crank is tough enough that you could just straighten the threads by retapping factory sizes. it will not pull through as long as the hole thread is there and not sheared off somehow when you kept turning the bolt..

i hate to see you put an odd size, but you probably already did it, so...glad you at least got it solved without cutting your car in two..lol!

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R.I.P

It's not really an odd size, I used 3/4 - 16. Fit the crank perfectly, and any hardware store carries the bolts. I actually ordered a nice, factory style, Grade 8 flanged bolt from McMaster-Carr when I ordered a bunch of stainless alan head bolts for the rest of the front of the engine (the stock bolts were looking ugly).

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Blake

2006 Crew: Team Spiderman/Hulk Top Fuel Motorcycle
8 Time World Champions, World Record Holders for 1/4 E/T: 5.799

I hear ya, I trashed the first few threads on my crank trying to pull on a pulley. Not a good feeling.... Glad to hear you got it all fixed.

I am sure you stepped back and asked yourself why did I even start this project... Then you get done and start looking for another one....

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93 LS1 7

LOL, this is my 2nd car and 6th or 7th swap. I'm long since well into the land of crazy.

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Blake

2006 Crew: Team Spiderman/Hulk Top Fuel Motorcycle
8 Time World Champions, World Record Holders for 1/4 E/T: 5.799

I have used a helicoil on two cranks without any issue, one was on a circle track car that made around 580 horse and the other is in a street car crank that has seen about 25,000 miles since it was done. There really isnt that much stress on that bolt as you would think, the most is on the keyway. I mean come on who can pull the balancer off with there hand.