are these still available ? would u sell the hole kit minus the diff bushings ?

If you get the full kit the diff bushings will sell in days. I dought the diff ones before the full set then when I got the full set sold the diff ones and they were in the mail in 2 days.

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Josh
I will finish your LS1 swap PM me!
74 MGB GT V8 12.83 (75 shot)
93 LS1/T56 Rule 3 No V8 RX7's

Here's the install instructions for those who may have misplaced them (aka myself), or anyone who wants to know what's involved. Many thanks to Tiresmokin7 for typing these out for me.

Congratulations!

You now have high performance suspension bushings for your RX7! These bushings are intended for race cars that by their vary nature are used and abused. As such, no warranty or liability is expressed or implied. Use of these bushings will alter the cars driving characteristics. Use at your own risk. I know it’s tempting to hop into the car and take a “Hot Lap” test drive after the install, but until you get used to the new driving characteristics it would be foolish.

If you are concerned or sensitive about noise or vibration do not install the rear shock absorber (color coded blue) and/or the differential bushings (color coded pink). The rear shock bushings are only intended for those advanced road course drivers who have coil over shocks installed and want the extreme track feel and don't mind the harsher ride! The differential bushings are intended for those who race quarter mile and need the extra help eliminating wheel hop.

With all that out of the way let’s get down to business. Installing the bushings is very simple for the individuals with the expertise to remove and replace the suspension. Those lacking the experience should have this done by a trained experienced professional. Prior to the removal you should mark all alignment positions with a scribe. This will make it much easier to get the alignment specs back into the ballpark. You will still need to get an alignment when done though. To install the bushings you’ll need to remove and replace the suspension components. Use your Mazda shop manual or go to this web sight for details on the proper procedures.

1993 Shop Manual

To show what's required in the removal and reinstallation of the arms a PDF copy of the 1993 and 1994 RX-7 shop manuals can also be found here.

94 FSM's available for download - RX7Club.com


Damian did a nice write up on doing the differential bushings here.

diff bushing install - RX7Club.com

Most Napa Auto Parts stores have a machine shop that can do the press work for you if you don’t own a press. I highly recommend the Mazda SST (Special Service Tool part number 49 F034 2A00) for the install of these bushings due to the design of the A-arms. You can use a press to do this and a write up is available on the RX7Club forum here:

HOW TO: Remove/Replace Suspension Bushings - RX7Club.com

After you’ve removed the stock bushings clean the black debris out of the inside surface of the arms. Be careful to not remove any aluminum altering the press fit.




If the old bushings aren’t removed cleanly and scar the surface of the aluminum they should be discarded.




The hole will no longer be perfectly round and will cause the pin to bind. When the arms inner surface has been cleaned and inspected be sure to inspect everything else. The ball joints, pillow balls and all other hardware needs to be checked before installing the Delrin bushings. You want to make sure every part is in good working order. Failure to do so is foolish and will only cause more problems later. When the inspections have been completed use a thin coating of anti seize on the outside diameter of the bushings and inside diameter of the arms. The antiseize helps the bushings install easier and eliminates the possibility of creaking.

The different colored zip ties are to help you recognize what bushing goes where. The bushings on the left side are for the front suspension and the bushings on the right are for the rear suspension. This is the zip tie color code for your batch of bushings.




White = Front lower A-arm front bushings.
Black = Front lower A-arm rear bushings.
Yellow = Front upper A-arm bushings.
Pink = Differential bushings.
Neon Green = Rear upper A-arm to body bushings.
Blue = Rear A-arm to shock absorber bushings.
Orange = Rear trailing arm bushings.

CWhiteRun, don't be alarmed if your Zip ties don't exactly match the pic shown. The shade of color may have changed but the color to the position hasn't.

These bushings will press in far easier then the old ones came out so please do be careful. Only push the Delrin bushings in far enough to just barely touch the flange and NO further! The Mazda SST makes this much easier also. If you apply pressure with a 12+ ton press (24,000 PSI) to the flange it will brake off and the bushing will not be in the proper position. The flange does not serve any purpose but to let you know when the bushing is in position. The press fit is what holds the bushing in place. I have a few extra front upper A-arm bushings (color Yellow). If you are going to use a hydraulic press to install your bushings, start with those. If you brake off a flange of any other bushing, chances are I will not have a replacement for it, so again please do be careful. All bushings will be installed with the flanges on the outside of the arms. The rear shock bushing should have the flange facing the front of the car. The trailing arm flanges go on the outside. Keep the same pins with the bushings and make sure to not mix them up. Number the pins to the mated bushings with a permanent marker prior to allowing anyone to remove any zip tie, especially if you’re going to have them pressed in at a local machine shop. After you have the bushings pressed into the arms you can drill through the arms and installed bushing for zerk fittings if you wish. This is a popular option with street driven race cars. Hold the arms up to the car and choose locations with the easiest access and mark with a felt tipped pen. Do not drill into the pins, remove them prior to drilling. McMaster-Carr has a wide selection of zerks to choose from or they can be found at your local auto parts store.

McMaster-Carr

When ready to install the arms on the car lubricate the inside of the bushing and completely fill the Lube Groove with the supplied Super Lube Teflon grease, removing all bubbles. Next cover the pin with a thin film of grease and push it into the bushing. The pins will fit tighter into the bushings after the Delrin has been pressed into the arm. This is expected and normal. Lubricate the outside of the Delrin bushing closest to the pins where they may contact the mounting surface. Install the arms using the factory torque specifications and follow the procedures from the Mazda shop manual. Mazda Torque Specifications in Foot Pounds are provided for the more experienced mechanics.


Front upper control arm:
Bushings bolts at the frame rail 44-54
ABS sensor bracket bolts 12-16
Ball joint retaining bolt 27-39

Lower front control arm:
Sway bar end link 44-54
Lower shock mount bolt 69-86
Bushing bolts at engine subframe 69-86
Ball joint castle nut 58-79

Front and rear shock mounting nuts on top of the strut towers 34-46

Rear upper control arm:
Bushing bolts at subframe 40-49
Lower shock mount bolt 69-86
Upper spindle bolt 40-49

Rear lower control arm:
Bushing bolt at the rear subframe 69-86
Trailing arm bolt 40-49
Lower spindle bolt 40-49

Rear trailing arm bushing bolt at the rear subframe 69-86

Rear toe link:
Bolt at the rear subframe 40-49
Bolt on the spindle 48-57






If you have any questions about the Lube Groove bushings or instructions feel free to PM me, I am always willing to help. Please post impressions of the Delrin bushings in the group buy thread after you’ve had a chance to install them. You’ll be helping others make a more informed decision…


Thank you and Happy Motoring!


Steve
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are there any kits left for sale??

any kits left?